Kolkata - Outlooktraveller

KOLKATA
Where Shakti resides
By Rajashri Dasgupta

Every day of the year, thousands of the faithful, some with wishes and others with hopes, throng to the famed Kalighat Temple, at the very mention of which devotees recall Ma Kali, the tutelary deity of Kolkata and, indeed, the whole of West Bengal. The most common image of the majestic goddess is of her standing on the chest of Shiva wearing a necklace of human skulls, a girdle of human arms, and holding an axe and a severed human head. She is dark as a thundercloud and her protruding tongue, some say, drips with the fresh blood of her enemies. Her ferocious power inspires awe and affection in equal measure and nowhere is this more obvious than in Kolkata. Sri Ramakrishna, one of her most famous devotees, saw her in every human being. It is possible to see her too in every corner of the city she has made her home. She is in the unceasing flow of the Ganga, in the plaintive song of a fisherman, in the undulating bellow of a conch shell during puja, in the festive pandals of the rich, in the earthen diyas of the poor, in the frayed photo that hangs in a corner tea shop, in the red-and-white bangles that Bengali women wear, in the labyrinthine streets of the city's destiny. She is in the hands of the sculptor who brings her to life every Durga Puja , fierce, unforgiving and adorable. It is not possible to imagine Kolkata without Kali. She, on the other hand, rules the world.

Legends and mythology
Legend goes that Kali, the `conqueror of time', so relished vanquishing demons that she got carried away and began killing everyone in sight. To stop her, Lord Shiva threw himself under her. When Kali recognised her own beloved, she was shocked out of her rampage, and ended her destructive spree. One of the 51 Shaktipeeths, Kalighat is where Sati's toe is said to have fallen on the banks of the Adi Ganga.

Architecture and antiquity
Some historians have tried to prove the Kalighat Temple's antiquity by tracing it to the Chandragupta II (380-414 CE) and Sena periods (1095-1260). It is said the temple's location was shifted twice. The deity was originally worshipped in a hut near the Posta Bazaar trading region in North Kolkata and was then moved south to Bhawnipur, before the present temple was constructed in Kalighat. In early 18th century, zamindar Sabarna Roy Chowdhury's family settled in the Barisha-Behala area and obtained rights to the temple and its property. This led to considerable controversy over the years as another family, that of the Haldars and their descendants, claimed ownership too, though it has also been argued that the Haldars had been entrusted only with the shebait or worship of the goddess. Finally, in the 1960s, a committee was formed for the management of the temple with representation from the government and the Haldar family. Such issues notwithstanding, the legions who worship the goddess have only grown. It took seven to eight years to rebuild the temple in 1809 at a cost of Rs 30,000. Beautifully rendered in traditional Bengal-style temple architecture, with an aatchal or eight roofs in two tiers, one superimposed over the other, the temple has a central dome towering over four smaller domes in the four corners.

If the visitor is able to extend the pilgrimage to the Kalighat Temple into a 3- to 4-day stay in the city, Kolkata's many other charms can be enjoyed as well. Kolkata is also a good base for day-trips to Dakshineshwar and Belur Math, Tarakeshwar, Tarapeeth, Mayapur-Navadvipa and Kamarpukur-Jairambati.

Kalighat Temple
Nothing seems to have changed much from the time when, as children, we were dragged by our family elders to pray at the temple. The surging crowds and the hum of mantras appear to make time come to a standstill. The only difference is in our perceptions. As kids we thought Ma Kali was `short' because we had to bend down to have a darshan at the sanctum (nijo-mandir). Now I know that, protected by iron railings, the sanctum is at a much lower height. All along the verandah that encircles the temple, devotees wait in patient queues to have a glimpse of the goddess. Two flights of stairs from opposite sides lead up to the impressive natmandir where pilgrims sit in prayer or rest while children play around. From here, worship in the temple can be seen through the jor-bangla, the spacious verandah of the main shrine.

It is believed that the original face and toes of the goddess are preserved in an iron chest in the garbha griha. During the deity's bathing ceremony, an auspicious event, the seniormost priest is blindfolded before he takes out the wrapped and invisible toe relic to bathe it.

The temple is unique in other ways too: it is the meeting point of different sects, the Shaktas (worshippers of Shakti or Devi) and the Vaishnavs (devotees of Lord Vishnu). The main deity is worshipped as Dakhinakali, her consort Shiva is seen as Nakuleshwar, while Vishnu dwells as Shyam Ray, a form of Krishna.

The walled temple complex has several shrines sprawled across over one bigha (14,400 sq ft) of land. The Sosthi Tala is a raised altar with a cactus plant. All priests are female. Three stones are placed here side by side. They represent the goddesses Sosthi, Sitola and Mongol Chandi, forms of Kali. Ma Sosthi looks after the welfare of children. Goddess Sitola is the presiding deity of diseases like pox and measles.

Within the complex, north of the main temple, is the Nakuleshwar Temple to Lord Shiva. The temple, built by a Punjabi merchant, follows the architectural style of a gurudwara. Behind the natmandir is the Harkath Tala, where bali or sacrifice of animals is performed for the goddess with a single stroke of the knife during which the devotee makes a sankalpa or wish. Placed side by side, the bigger bali stand is for buffalo sacrifices while the smaller one is for goats and sheep.

Dating back to 1723, the Radha-Krishna Temple to the west of the main temple is better known as the Shyam Ray Temple.
TIP It is common for pandas (priests) to surround devotees as they enter the road leading to the Kalighat Temple. For the believer, less money to the pandas means mantras at speed and worse, less time for darshan. Pilgrims who wish to let a panda take over must be warned: at every point, you have to be ready with money for the panda literally puts the fear of god in you. There are two queues, one for the garbha griha and another for darshan from the verandah (jor-bangla). The former is more orderly, and controlled by security guards on Tuesdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and festival days. Touts and pandas control the queue for the jor-bangla and mislead devotees into believing that the queue to the sanctum will take a formidable amount of time to progress. Of course, queues are always meant to be broken with money.
*Location Off the arterial SP Mukherjee Road in the east, Hazra Road in the north and Rashbehari Avenue in the south. Take the metro to Jatin Das Station (direction Tollygunj), which is closer than Kalighat Station Kalighat Temple timings 5 am-2 pm, 5-10.30 pm; on Sundays, Saturdays and Tuesdays, the temple closes at 11.30 pm Nakuleswar Temple timings 4 am-1.30 pm, 5-10 pm
*Related info Kolkata has lively nine-day long festivities for Durga Puja (Sep-Oct) with elaborate pandals being put up all over the metropolis. At the Kalighat Temple, the gates remain open for devotees 24 hrs. Sundays, Tuesdays and Saturdays, and the Bengali months of Bhadra (Aug-Sep) when the goddess is offered 12 kinds of fruits, Pous (Dec-Jan) when the deity is worshipped with radishes by those seeking financial security, and Chaitra (Mar-Apr), are the most auspicious. The crowds are huge then. The goddess is worshipped during the month of Aghran (Nov-Dec) with newly grown rice grains. If you wish to have a quiet darshan, Wednesdays or Thursdays are best. On Bengali New Year, or on the first day of Baisakh (Apr 15), long queues of devotees form from dawn. At this time the north gate or `Birla Gate' is opened (otherwise always shut), and batches of volunteers manage the surging crowds Temple Tel 033-24639911

While in Kolkata
Mother Teresa's Nirmal Hridaya, the world-famous home for destitutes run by the departed Nobel Peace laureate, the ancient Greek Orthodox Church, and the Gurudwara Jagat Sudhar are all in the Kalighat area of South Kolkata. There is Lake Kalibari (open 6 am-12.30 pm, 3.30-9 pm), the new temple to Kali being erected on Southern Avenue. Next door, the Birla Academy of Art and Culture (open Tue-Sat 12 noon-8 pm, Sun 4-8 pm, Mon closed; entry fee Rs 2; Tel: 033-24662843/ 6802) has a good museum of paintings and sculptures. Opposite here are the Dhakuria Lakes, with beautiful walkways that children enjoy too. At the 10-year-old Birla Mandir (open 5.30-11 am, 4.30-9 pm; Tel: 24615717), on Gariahat Road, devotees get makhan (butter) as prasad early in the morning and peda/ sandesh before closing time. Next door is the classy CIMA Gallery (Tel: 24858717/ 509), which excels in exhibiting the Bengal masters. The shop here sells quality prints, jewellery and arty knick-knacks.

A one-stop happening place is the Nandan Complex on Bose Road (Tel: 22231210) ' catch a film at Nandan (tickets Rs 20-50), a play at Rabindra Sadan (tickets Rs 20 and above), or an art exhibition at Sisir Mancha. About 500m north on Cathedral Road is one of the city's oldest art galleries, the Academy of Fine Arts, which holds plays throughout the year (Tel: 22234302; tickets Rs 20, 30, 60). About 20m north on the same road is the majestic St Paul's Cathedral. About a 100m north of here is the Birla Planetarium (Tel: 22236610/ 1516; open all days; tickets Rs 20) with shows in Hindi, Bengali and English. On the opposite side of the road, the regal Victoria Memorial (Tel: 22235142/ 1890; entry fee: Indians Rs 10, foreigners Rs 150; gallery open 10 am-5 pm, closed Mondays) faces the maidan. There are two (Bengali and English) 45 mins long open-air, sound-and-light shows every evening (English: 7.15 pm; tickets: Rs 10 and Rs 20; discontinued from Jun-Aug due to monsoons). For walkers, the beautiful grounds are open from 5.30 am-6.30 pm, according to the season (entry fee Rs 4).

Relax by the waterfront on the east banks of the River Hooghly. The Strand, where the promenade starts, is ideal for stroll. Enjoy street food like kebab rolls and puchkas (pani puris). Hire a modernised country boat (bargain for Rs 100 or so) and float gently downstream. The Princep Ghat immediately before the Vidyasagar Setu is an imposing monument overlooking the river. Cricket lovers might want to stop by the historic Eden Gardens Stadium. About a kilometre away, on Council Road, is the mausoleum of Job Charnock in the compound of St John's Church. He landed in the then Sutanati Village in 1690 as an agent of the East India Company. See Writers Building, the seat of the state government, and the high-domed General Post Office (there is a philately museum in the complex), which is lit up in the evenings.

A visit to Kolkata is incomplete without a peek into its northern suburbs. Lovers of poet Rabindranath Tagore should visit the museum housed in the family mansion of the Jorasanko Thakurbari, part of Rabindra Bharati University in North Kolkata. The beautiful Jain shrine, Parashnath Temple in Belgachia, and the impressive Nakhoda Mosque in crowded Chitpur (some of the best kebabs are found in this area) are worth visiting too. While in the area, devotees may like to visit the more than 100-year-old Thonthone Kalibari Temple on College Street and then move south to participate in the animated ambience of the historical Coffee House (once the Albert Hall) the legendary `adda' where film scripts, movies, books, poetry and revolution ' fought and won ' are debated over endless cups of coffee. This area is also famous for its rows of second-hand bookshops, which often yield the rarest treasures.

Kenilworth Hotel Location: Little Russel Street Tel: 033-22823939-40 Tariff: 5000 - 8000 Email: Website: www.kenilworthhotels.com Rooms: 105 Facilities: Restaurants, pubs, Ayurvedic massage centre, baby sitting, forex, gym, travel desk, laundry, attached bath, hot water, credit cards accepted

The Oberoi Grand Location: JL Nehru Road Tel: 033-22492323 Tariff: 8500 - 26500 Email: Website: www.oberoikolkata.com Rooms: 222 Facilities: Restaurants, tea lounge, forex, sightseeing, swimming pool, gym, golf, travel desk, laundry, attached bath, hot water, credit cards accepted

The Astor Location: Near Birla Planetorium Tel: 033-30521100 Tariff: 2500 - 2995 Email: Website: www.astorkolkata.com Rooms: 33 Facilities: Restaurants, bar, forex, travel desk, laundry, attached bath, hot water, credit cards accepted

Homely Raj Location: Near Kalighat Temple Tel: 033-24754344 Tariff: 650 - 1175 Email: rajrest@cal2.vsnl.net.in Rooms: 24 Facilities: Restaurant, bar, doctor-on-call, travel desk, laundry, attached bath, hot water, credit cards accepted

Kolkata is truly a foodie city and great value for money at that. Around the Kalighat area, Banana Leaf, attached to Komala Vilas, serves excellent South Indian vegetarian food. An old favourite is the 60-year-old Rao's Udipi Home, on Jatin Das Road off Deshapriya Park, where you can eat your heart's fill of quality food with pleasant service and not fear the bill. 

If you would like to sample non-vegetarian food, come to Rashbehari Road Junction to eat at Bachan's Modern Hotel. The take-away reshmi kebab and chicken tikka (Rs 50 for 8 pieces) from Tandoori Club, next to Bachan's, are the juiciest. For Bengali cuisine, opt for Bhojohori Manna (they also have many branches in the city), close to the Jatin Das Metro Station. You can feast like royalty on delicacies like jumbo chitol fish (Rs 150), prawns cooked inside a green coconut (Rs 120) and the all-time favourite ilish (hilsa) fish, and you will be relishing the best. Vegetarian favourites here undoubtedly are dhokar dalna (made of lentils), raw jackfruit curry and chops flavoured with opium seed.

Landsdown Road, which runs parallel to the Metro Rails, has a row of restaurants, from the Mandarin for Chinese food, to Marco Polo for a mixed menu of world cuisines, to Khawab for generous helpings of light biryani, and Tamarind for excellent Chettinad food.  

In central Kolkata, head to Eau Chew for Chinese stir-frys. A plate of Josephine noodles (Rs 300; can easily feed four hungry people) is a meal by itself along with a plate of 12 dumplings (Rs 220). Located in a business district, they close early (10 pm).

Mocambo on Park Street used to have belly dancers but is now famous for Continental fish dishes. Nearby, the chelo kebabs of Peter Cat are an all-time favourite as are the steaks at Olympia. The landmark Flury's has been revamped; diners continue to throng here for sandwiches and pastries at breakfast and tea-time but the service is frustrating. On Middleton Street, the much-hyped Sourav's (after former skipper Ganguly) could do with a course on efficiency and speed; even the dishes are forgettable. On the other hand, even the newly opened One Step Up provides wholesome Continental food at reasonable rates.

Some of the best Chinese restaurants are in China Town in Tangra, East Kolkata. The best-known restaurants are Beijing, Kimling and Kafulok. There are many more and the food never disappoints (you may need your own vehicle as taxis can be difficult to find here late at night). Try the crunchy lamb and fish in mustard paste at Mainland China on Gurusaday Road in the heart of town.

Kewpies, on Elgin Lane in South Kolkata, is famous for its Bengali cuisine served on banana leaves. Favourites include prawns in coconut paste, a variety of fish dishes and the choicest vegetables. Teej, on Russel Street, has appetising vegetarian Rajasthani and North Indian fare. Carry home rosogollas in tins from mithai chains like Ganguram and KC Das. Try the liquid-gur filled jalbhora sandesh and the superb lemon sandesh at Balaram in Padmapukur Street. At Bancharam on Gariahat Road, taste the aabarkhabo and kanchagola. The mishti doi and gur rosogollas (in winter) are undoubtedly the best at Jadhavs on Rashbehari Avenue. For outstation travel, sweets are packed well to avoid damage.  

If you are on the look out for the famous Bengal handloom cotton saris, on Rashbehari Avenue, near the market junction, are the reliable, old-worldly Dhakeswari Bastralaya, Adi Dhakeswari Bastralaya and Traders Assembly. Nearby, on Nandi Street, women swear by the tangails and tants from rows of retailers like Basaks. Another favourite is Balaram, opposite Pantaloon, to the north of the Gariahat flyover. The exclusive hand-block prints on mull-mull and silk at Kanishka on Hindustan Road are in great demand. Among the first boutiques started by home women entrepreneurs are Kundahar (famous for its dhakais) and Meera Bose, standing side by side on Dr Sarat Banerjee Street. Off Park Street, on Russel Street, check out Ananda for high-quality exclusives.

Check out the state emporia at the Dakhinapan Shopping Complex, south of the Dhakuria flyover for beautiful products from the North-East. Sip a cool pudina-lemon tea at Dolly's Teashop and buy the best of Darjeeling teas, packed in attractive pouches, for family and friends. Also look out for the Dhruva chain of teashops in different parts of the city (at Deshapriya Park near Kalighat and College Street in North Kolkata, among others). The Swabhumi Complex on the EM Bypass is a crafts village cum food-and-cinema place popular for hand-spun and embroidered textiles, handicrafts, terracotta artefacts and bell metal figurines (dhokra). New Market, off JL Nehru Road, is a favourite for clothes, curios and eatables.

State West Bengal
Important temples Kalighat Temple, Shyam Ray Temple, Nakuleshwar Temple Location The Hooghly forms a natural boundary to Kolkata's west as the state capital grew along the eastern banks in a north-south direction. Howrah, connected by two bridges, is Kolkata's twin city on the Hooghly's west banks
Distances 468 km NE of Bhubaneswar, 602 km SE of Patna, 404 km SE of Ranchi

When to go Any time of the year. Oct-Feb is most pleasant.

Tourist office
West Bengal Tourism
3/2, BBD Bag (East), Kolkata
Tel: 033-22485917/ 5168/ 8271
Fax: 22485168

STD code Kolkata 033

Air The city centre is about 14 km from Kolkata's Dum Dum Airport. Taxis charge approx Rs 150 for the distance.   
Rail Kolkata is a major junction on Eastern Railways, well-connected to the rest of the country by some of the fastest and most convenient trains. 
Road The state is well-connected with a wide network of national and state highways such as NH2 (Delhi-Kolkata) and NH6 (Kolkata-Mumbai-Chennai). There are buses to Dhaka and locations on the borders of Nepal and Bhutan from Kolkata. Some reliable private cab operators, who may be contacted for services within the city and day-trips outside it are: International Travel House (Tel: 033-22882623, 22889900; Extn 3535) and Peerless Travels (Tel: 22479974/ 9269/ 1052). The drivers of Ruia Travels (Mobile: 09830162766, 09830260294) carry cell phones and are well-informed about the city. Guided Travels (Tel: 24649529) is reliable but not all drivers have cells, and not all are well-informed about some parts of the city.

Orientation
Kolkata has a cheap, well-connected but overcrowded bus service. Taxis (minimum fare Rs 20 for 1.5 km) are safe and easily available. The Metro (minimum fare Rs 4) runs north-south between Dumdum and Tollygunj. Share autorickshaws (minimum fare Rs 4) and frequent bus services ply on the connector roads to the Metro stations. Kolkata's two main railway stations, Howrah and Sealdah are both about 5-6 km from the city centre. To avoid traffic snarl-ups, people opt for the faster and cheaper boat service at Babughat for connections to Howrah. A must-do is an environment-friendly tram ride to see old parts of the city although, unfortunately, it has been withdrawn from many sectors due to traffic constraints. Hand-pulled rickshaws ply in a few neighbourhoods. The old Keoratala crematorium and crowded brothels along the Adi or old Ganga, now a fetid canal of rubbish, stand adjacent to Kalighat.
*Packages On specified days of the year, West Bengal Tourism conducts a 1N/ 2D package tour by luxury bus to Tarakeshwar, Antpur, Kamarpukur and Jairambati for Rs 975 (including food and accommodation in Tarakeshwar). It is advisable to book in advance. A note of caution: sometimes the itinerary is changed due to `unavoidable' circumstances. They also have full-day Kolkata sightseeing trips (Rs 150 per person; 8 am-5.30 pm). Half-day trips are organised on request (min 6-7 people; Rs 100 per person)