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Kolkata Wikitravel

Kolkata is a huge city with several district articles containing sightseeing, restaurant, nightlife and accommodation listings — consider printing them all.

Kolkata [1] (formerly Calcutta) is the capital of West Bengal and the second largest city in India (after Mumbai). If Bangalore is the Seattle of India, then Kolkata is the sub-contintent's New York. It is an 'in your face' city that shocks and charms the unsuspecting visitor. Abject poverty and filth mix inexplicably with crumbling British Raj-era gems, sprawling gardens and historical colleges. Long known as the cultural capital of India, Kolkata continues to spawn generations of poets, writers, film producers and Nobel Peace Prize winners. If your visit only allows for a visit of one or two of India's metropolitan cities, then definitely consider placing Kolkata on your itinerary. Love it or hate it, you definitely won't forget the city on the Hooghly.

The Victoria Memorial, a subtle reminder of the Raj

[edit] Districts

• Southern fringes — the rapidly mushrooming localities to the south of the city. Includes Behala, Jadavpur, Garia and Narendrapur. There are a number of educational institutes and lavish shopping malls in this area. This is a relatively newer part of the city where a lot of expansion is going on.

• South Kolkata — the posher part of the city. Covers Bhawanipur, Alipore, New Alipore, Rash Behari, Tollygunge and Ballygunge.

• Esplanade — the colonial district is still the central business area and is considered the heart of Kolkata. Made up of Park Street, Mirza Ghalib Street (Free School Street), Dalhousie Square, Chandni Chowk, Barra Bazaar and Sudder Street.

• Maidan — the lungs of Kolkata. The area consisting of the huge park and its surrounding neighborhoods. Includes Fort William, Strand Road, Khidirpur, Dufferin Road, Hooghly Bank and Chowringhee.

• North Kolkata — the older area of the city, a fascinating district dominated by narrow little lanes and hundreds of century-old bulidings. Includes Belgachhia, Shyam Bazaar, Shobha Bazaar, Maniktala, Jora Sanko and the famous College Street area. Also situated here are the Sealdah station, one of the largest train hubs in India, and the newly built Kolkata station.

• Northern fringes — the large industrial area to the north of the city. Includes Kashipur, Dumdum, Belghoria, Khardah, Panihati, Titagarh etc. where there are a number of factories, including jute, paper, cotton, ordnance and chemicals.

• East Kolkata — Rapidly developing, specially IT sector and home to India's largest mall. Encompasses Salt Lake City (Bidhan Nagar), Rajar Hat, Lake Town and the E.M. Bypass. Many five star hotels, theme parks, posh housing estates and techno parks are being built in this area.

• Howrah — while technically its own city, Howrah is very much a part of the Kolkata metro area, and Howrah train station is where you'll arrive/depart from if connecting with anything north or west of Kolkata.

[edit] Understand

[edit] Ancient and Pre-British History

[edit] History

Kolkata's history is intimately related to the British East India Company, which first arrived in 1690, and to British India, of which Calcutta became the capital of in 1772. Job Charnock was widely known as the founder of Calcutta but in recent years a number of Indian historians have disputed this claim, arguing that Calcutta occupies the site of an older Indian city, centered around the ancient Kali temple at Kalighat. This claim has been accepted by the Kolkata High Court.

Whatever its origins, Calcutta flowered as the capital of British India during the nineteenth century, the heyday of the Raj. Calcutta University, the first modern Indian university was founded here in 1857. Calcutta became the center of Indian arts and literature, and the national movement for independence got its start here. However, with the transfer of the capital to Delhi in 1911, the pains of the partition of Bengal in 1947, and a violent and bloody Maoist movement (the Naxalite movement) in the 1970s, Calcutta has become synonymous with urban decay and poverty ("New York is deteriorating into New Calcutta," opined an editorial in The New York Times on Dec. 25th, 1988).

[edit] Modern Kolkata

Kolkata is the main business, commercial and financial hub of eastern India. Kolkata witnessed an economic decline from the late sixties till the late nineties. The city's economic fortunes turned the tide as the early nineties economic liberalization in India reached Kolkata's shores during late nineties. Kolkata is a multicultural, cosmopolitan city. Apart from the diversity of India, the cultures represented are that of the Europeans (Including Germans, Armenians, and others), and other Asians (Including Chinese, Sinhalese, and Tibetans).

Since 1977, a "Left Front" coalition of communist and Marxist parties has continuously ruled the state. This is reflected in street names and memorials in the city. For example there are streets like Lenin Sarani, Ho Chi Minh Sarani, etc.. The Left Front regained control of the Municipal Corporation of Kolkata from the Trinamul Congress in the 2005 civic elections.

[edit] Economy

Thanks to the forward-looking leadership of the Left front, Kolkata is fast developing into a modern infotech city with various private sector companies setting up shop here. The landscape of the city is also fast changing with flyovers, gardens and several new commercial establishments. Kolkata city itself has expanded into its suburbs, with the Greater Kolkata stretching from Kalyani (in Nadia District) in North to Diamond Harbour in South (in the South 24 Parganas District).

The city's fortunes have looked up since the early nineties, coinciding with the liberalization of the Indian economy. Its economy has been amongst the fastest growing in the country. The New Metro city is characterised by popular spots like Inox Multiplexes, Nandan, Tantra, Barista Coffee Shops, Sourav's Pavilion and Science City.

Kolkata is home to many industrial units, of large Indian corporations, whose product range is varied and includes - engineering products, electronics, electrical equipment, cables, steel, leather, textiles, jewellery, frigates, automobiles, railway coaches and wagons.

Several industrial estates like Taratolla, Kalyani, Uluberia, Dankuni, Kasba, Howrah are spread throughout the urban agglomeration. A huge leather complex has come up at Bantolla. An export processing zone has been set up in Falta. Specialized setups like the country's first Toy Park, and a Gem and Jewellery Park have also been established.

Kolkata is also starting to become a major hub for the IT (Information Technology) industry. With the formation of New Town at Rajarhat and extension of Salt Lake's Sector-V, Kolkata is rapidly turning into a pro-IT town. More and more businesses are coming to Kolkata to set up their offices.

[edit] Geography

Kolkata is located in the eastern part of India at 22°82′ N 88°20′ E. It has spread linearly along the banks of the river Hooghly.

The Kolkata Municipal Corporation has an area of 185 square kilometres. The city proper today can be roughly divided into two sections along Mother Teresa Sarani (Park Street). North of Park Street is the more congested part of the city. South of Park Street is the slightly better planned section of the city.

The old Central Business District (CBD) is where the seat of the West Bengal Government is located, along with many other government offices. Several banks have their corporate (Allahabad Bank, United Bank of India, UCO Bank) or regional headquarters (Reserve Bank of India, State Bank of India, Bank of India, Central Bank of India amongst many others) around the B. B. D. Bagh area. Many of Kolkata's older business groups have their main offices here. The area is a mix of multi-storeyed office blocks and colonial buildings.

The newer CBD is around the south of Park Street, Camac Street and AJC Bose Road. Several high-rise office blocks including some of Kolkata's tallest commercial buildings - like the Chatterjee International Centre, Tata Centre, Everest House, Industry House, CGO Building - are located here.

Maidan (open field) is situated between the river Ganges and J.L.Nehru Road (or Chowringhee). It is said to be the lungs of Kolkata. The lush green meadow also houses Victoria Memorial, Eden Gardens, and several sporting clubs. Kolkatans simply love to stroll in the Maidan.

In an effort to relieve congestion in the main city, many government offices have shifted to high-rise office buildings lining Bidhan Nagar's (Salt Lake) Central Park.

The residential buildings are mainly lowrise and comprise of older colonial buildings and numerous new four storied apartment blocks. Ten to twelve storied apartment blocks have come up in large numbers in south Kolkata. The city has relaxed its rules on high-rise construction recently and twenty storied buildings are becoming more common. The tallest residential towers of eastern India - the four thirty-five-storey towers of South City are under construction on Prince Anwar Shah Road.

Heavy construction activity along the Eastern Metropolitan Bypass is changing the face of the city. Luxury hotels, a convention centre, speciality hospitals, condominium complexes, malls and multiplexes are coming up at a rapid pace.

The city's expansion in the eastern side is spearheaded by the construction of a large new city called New Town adjacent to the well planned Bidhan Nagar. Located in Rajarhat, it is one of the largest planned urban developments in India.

The neglected western side of the urban agglomeration has got a boost recently with the signing of an agreement with Chiputra, an Indonesian company to build the Kolkata West International City (KWIC). Another huge new township is in the proposal state in Dankuni.

Slums and dilapidated structures exist in many pockets of the city proper and house over 25% of the city's population (Census 2001). Slum redevelopment schemes have helped improve living conditions by a small extent but there is huge scope for improvement in this area. Efforts to shift slum dwellers to newer developments have often met with resistance and failure because many of the slums are in prime areas of the city and the slum dwellers who are integrated in the social structure of the neighbourhood do not want to shift.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose International Airport [2] (IATA: CCU) connects Kolkata with South East Asia and receives some flights from Europe but is surprisingly small for a city of this size and hasn't been refurbished since the 1950s. The domestic terminal, on the other hand, is among the best in India. It is undergoing a major face-lift and expansion to cope with the expanding bulk of air traffic and new airline companies popping up almost every month.

Take a prepaid taxi from the airport to the city. It is about 20 km from the city. Expect to pay about Rs. 150-250 depending on your destination. Alternatively, adventurous souls can try out the new rail link to Dum Dum, where you can board the Metro (underground railway). Be cautioned though that there are only two trains per day, one at six in the morning and the other at ten at night!

[edit] By train

There are two major railway stations in Kolkata - Howrah (not in Kolkata actually, it's in the next city Howrah) and Sealdah. A new terminus station called 'Kolkata' has also started functioning since 2005, but presently it accommodates very few trains.

The Foreign Ticket Office is on Fairly Place (with the main GPO on your left, take the next left - the office is a few minutes walk on the left) - very helpful and efficient service.

Kolkata is well connected by rail to almost all the big stations in India and also serves as the gateway to the North Eastern India.

[edit] By car

[edit] By bus

To/from Bangladesh There are numerous bus options between Kolkata and Bangladesh. The most common way is the regular comfortable a/c buses from Dhaka to Kolkata via the Haridaspur / Benapole border post. Private bus companies Shohagh, Green Line, Shyamoli and others operate daily bus services on this route. Govt. buses run under the label of the state owned West Bengal Surface Transport Service Corporation (WBSTSC) and the Bangladesh Road Transport Corporation (BRTC). WBSTSC and BRTC both operate buses from Kolkata every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday at 5:30AM and 8:30AM, and 12:30PM while from Dhaka they leave on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday at 7:00AM and 7:30AM. The normal journey time is around 12 hours with a one-way fare of Rs550 or BDT600-800, roughly $8-12. If you're only headed to Haridaspur the fare is Rs86 (2.5 hours). The Shyamoli Paribahan ticket office is at 6/1 Marquis St (parallel to and one block south of Sudder Street, and just west of Mirza Ghalib St, next door to DHL), 2252 0693. Beware that several travel agencies around this area also sell tickets for these buses, but at very inflated prices. At the border it's best to change money on the Indian side, but count it carefully and double-check the math on their calculator. On the Bangladesh side you can catch a flat-bed cycle-rickshaw for Tk5 for the 2km trip to the bus stand for onward travel - or you can walk, but expect the hopeful rickshaw-wallahs to follow you at least half way.

To/from Eastern India via Bangladesh Bus travel to some points in Eastern India are faster via Bangladesh (please note that visas may be required for entry into Bangladesh as well as for re-entry into India). If you're heading to points in Eastern India (Tripura for example) beyond Bangladesh -- then there is a regular bus service between Dhaka and Agartala, capital of India's Tripura state. Two BRTC buses leave daily from Dhaka and connect with the Tripura Road Transport Corporation vehicles, running six days a week with a roundtrip fare of BDT600 ($10). There is only one halt at Ashuganj in Bangladesh during the journey. Call +880 2 8360241 for schedule. Other entry points to North-Eastern India through Bangladesh are Hili, Chilahati / Haldibari and Banglaband border posts through Northern Bangladesh and Tamabil / Dawki border post for a route between Shillong (Meghalaya) and Sylhet in North-Eastern Bangladesh, and some others with lesser known routes from north-eastern Indian regions. Although scheduled bus-services to Shillong/Meghalaya from Kolkata through Dhaka may not be offered at present -- it is still possible to get to those points via land routes going through Sylhet and then on to Tamabil/Dawki border outposts. Enquire at the Bus Service Counters for details.

Esplanade Bus Station is the Kolkata's main station for inter-state and inter-city buses.

[edit] By boat

The river Hooghly that runs through the west of the city offered one of the first reasons to the foundation of the British commercial settlement. The river continues to offer one of the less crowded but slow traffic medium. There are several points (popularly called Ghats and jetties) on the bank of the river from where you can board several regular routes of ferry services. Ferries can be fairly large launches to small improvised motorized boats. They are extremely safe though. Even if you don't get any exotic manual boats like you get in Varanasi, the river transport of the city lets you go to several old spots near the bank in a hassle-free manner with an additional dash of the view of decadent river front of the city.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By taxi

Kolkata just wouldn't look the same without the plethora of yellow ambassador taxis that clog its many roads. They're easily available and relatively cheap, and will usually use their meters! The meters are, however, outdated. The fare is 1.8 times the reading + Rs. 2 if the meter is inside, and 3.6 times the reading+ Rs. 2 if the meter is outside. The outside meters are illegal but still some taxis use it. There is a "green taxi" which is red coloured (!) and charges the same. In case you are confused always ask to see the chart that the driver is supposed to carry with him. Expect to pay a bit more if you are going to the outskirts of the city or traveling at night. How much more that depends on your bargaining skills, but it should be at most Rs. 10-20 on top of the taxi meter.

If you are lucky enough you can catch an air-conditioned cab, but those are very few in number. There is no taxi calling service in Kolkata yet but there would be one from next year.

[edit] By metro

Metro Railway, Kolkata [3] was the first underground rail in India, yet it still has only a single route connecting the north and south of the city, from Dumdum to Tollygunge (work is in progress on the extension to Garia). It is the cleanest, most reliable, least crowded and most efficient of all the transportation Kolkata has to offer. Trains run every 10-15 minutes and at Rs 4-8 it's very economical.

Stops include Esplanade (for Chowringhee), Park Street, Maidan (for Victoria Memorial and Planetarium), Rabindra Sadan and Kalighat.

[edit] By tram

Calcutta Tramways [4] is the only tram service in all of India. Though decommissioned in some part of the city, electric trams are still one of the means of traveling between places within the city. They move slow on the laid tracks in traffic jammed streets, but they are environment friendly (no emission). Check their site for routes and schedules.

[edit] By train

The electrified suburban rail network of the SER and the ER is extensive and includes the Circular Rail.

[edit] By bus

The city has an extensive bus network (possibly the most exhaustive in the whole of India), and this is the cheapest, though not always the most comfortable means of transport. Among the buses that ply the city streets, the deluxe buses run by CSTC (Calcutta State Transport Corporation), CTC (Calcutta Tramways Company) and WBSTC (West Bengal Surface Transport Corporation) are probably the better option. A/C buses are also available to select destinations from near the airport.

[edit] By auto-rickshaw

Shared auto-rickshaws are available from different points. They travel in fixed routes and the fare is fixed. They are supposed to take four persons, three in the back seat and one sharing the driver's seat!

[edit] By rickshaw

A human-pulled rickshaw

Long the world's only major metropolis where human-pulled rickshaws were still a major form of transport, a complete ban was supposed to be imposed in November 2006 - but with 35,000 union members who are unlikely to disappear overnight it was not implemented.

[edit] Hiring a car

Privately owned rental car places are available throughout the city. Rates depend on the make, model, size and comfort level of the car. Agreements are flexible, for example, cars can be rented even for couple of hours at an hourly rate. Most rental cars are accompanied with a driver from the rental agency. Here are contacts of a few rental car agents:

• Travel Cars, +91 33 2249 4970 Queens Mansion, Garage No. 8, Park Street.
• Time Cabs, +91 33 2247 9574 13, Camac Street.
• Wenz, +91 33 227 8926, Oberoi Grand Hotel.
• Diamond Tours & Travels,+91 98 3138 1911, 30,Jadunath Dey Rd.(opp: Indian Airlines House), Kolkata 12.
• TTMI Travels, +91 98 3004 4245,098310=12240 Kolkata 14.[5]

[edit] See

Kolkata is a huge city, so all individual listings should be moved to the appropriate district articles. Please help sort them out if you are familiar with this city.

The city sprawls along the eastern bank of the Hooghly River, a tributary of the Ganges, which divides it from Howrah on the western bank. For travelers, the most relevant parts of Kolkata are south of the Howrah Bridge in the areas around BBD Bagh and Chowringhee.

[edit] Maidan

South of BBD Bagh is the huge, lush, green, open parkland known as Maidan. Continuing south from here you will find

Eden Gardens (one of the most famous cricket stadiums in the world),

• All India Radio building

• Fort William, the massive and impregnable British Citadel built in 1773. The fort is still in use and retains its well-guarded grandeur. Visitors are allowed in with special permission only.

• Victoria Memorial [6] Along St. George's Gate Road, on the southern fringe of the Maidan, you will find Kolkata's most famous landmark , a splendid white marble monument.

• Calcutta Racecourse

[edit] Chowringee

[edit] Northern Kolkata

The Northern part of Kolkata houses the old buildings belonging to the Zamindars (Landlords), other rich Bengali people who were trading with the British. It is generally crowded and has some interesting markets including the famous College Street Book market where you can trace many out of print books with a little patience. While in College Street a visit to the College St Coffee House is a must. Also around the area are the Calcutta Medical College, the Presidency college and Calcutta University.

North of BBD Bagh you will find the

• Nakhoda Mosque (the largest mosque in Kolkata) and the

• Shobhabajar Rajbari the ancestral house of Rja Naba Krishna, one of the rich locals to side with Clive during his war with Nabab Siraj-Ud-Daula.

Further along you will find

• Jorasanko Thakur Bari (Tagore Family residence).

• Parashnath Jain Temple, near the Belgachia metro station.

• Parashnath Jain Temple, at Gouribari, less visited, reachable from the Sovabazar Metro station (take an auto rickshaw).

• Marble Palace, The marble palace was the private mansion of Zamindar (Land owner) Raja Rajendro Mullick, who had built this palace in 1835. It is situated on the Muktaram Babu Street in a congested part of the city. A real garden, of may be an acre with a Palladian Mansion set square in the centre. Today this place has an incongruous collection of statues and paintings. There is also a private zoo housing a collection of birds from different corners of the world.

• The Howrah Bridge [7] spans the Hooghly River linking Howrah to Kolkata. It is said to be the busiest bridge in the world. No photos allowed.

• Kali temple of Dakshineswar is to the north of the city on the banks of the Ganges, across from Belur Math.

[edit] Southern Kolkata

Southern Kolkata is less congested and more modern. You will find more apartment blocks, more green spaces and more affluent homes.

• The Tollygunge Club is one of the oldest clubs and a famous colonial relic housing a golf course, horse riding facilities, accommodation etc.)Its located in Tollygunge area.

• Rabindra Sarovar is a large open lake and park area housing boating clubs, an open air theatre and eateries and comes under the Ballygunge area.

• Birla Industrial & Technological Museumon Gurusaday Road in Ballygunge.

• Royal Calcutta Golf Club is the oldest golf club in the world after St. Andrews in Scotland,located in Tollygunge.

• Tollywood (the home of Bengali Films) and Television centre are also found in Tollygunge.

• Ramakrishna Mission Institute in Golpark,at Ballygunge.

• The Birla Temple is the largest in Kolkata and worth a visit.Its located on Ashutosh Chowdhury Avenue(Old Ballygunge Road) in Ballygunge.

• National Library of Indiaat Alipore.

• The Kalighat Kali Temple, very famous to Hindus, it houses Kolkata's patron deity.

• Mother Teresa's Hospital for the destitute is next door to the Kalighat temple.

• China Town near Park circus houses some of the finest Chinese eateries.
• Inox-Forum at Elgin Road near Rabindra Sadan -- multiplex movie hall along with a big shopping mall

.* Big Bazar on E. M. Bypass at Highland Park (Baghajatin)- here you can buy almost everything under the sun at reasonable price

• Gariahat which comes under Ballygunge area.It is the biggest shopping district of Kolkata,where one can find shops ranging from branded showrooms and malls like Pantaloons,westside,Raymonds to numerous smaller shops.

[edit] West of the Hooghly

• Howrah Station

• The Botanical Gardens at Sibpur.

• Belur Math, a huge complex and the headquarters of the Ramakrishna Mission.

[edit] TBD

• Kolkata been nicknamed the City of Palaces. This comes from the numerous palatial mansions built all over the city. During the British colonial era from 1700-1912, when Calcutta was the capital of British India, it witnessed a spate of frenzied construction activity of buildings largely influenced by the conscious intermingling of Gothic, Baroque, Roman, Oriental and Islamic schools of design. Unlike many north Indian cities, whose construction stresses minimalism, the layout of much of the architectural variety in Kolkata owes its origins to European styles and tastes imported by the British and, to a much lesser extent, the Portuguese and French. The buildings were designed, and inspired by the tastes of the English gentleman around and the aspiring Bengali Babu (literally a nouveau riche Bengali who aspired to cultivation of English etiquette, manners and custom as such practices were favourable to monetary gains from the British). Today many of these structures are in various stages of decay. Some of the major buildings of this period are well maintained and several buildings have been declared as heritage structures. Conservation efforts are patchy and are often affected by problems of litigation, tenant troubles, ownership disputes, old tenancy laws and a lack of funds.

• Government House, Kolkata, built in the early 19th century, is modelled on Kedleston Hall. The House was once the seat of the Viceroys of India; later, when the Government moved to New Delhi, it became the residence of the Governor of Bengal, a function that it fulfils to this day. While the basic features of Kedleston have been faithfully copied (the Palladian Front, the Dome etc.), Government House is a much larger, three storeyed structure. Also, the Government of India evidently did not have the funding constraints that forced the Curzons to leave their house incomplete: Government House has all four wings originally conceived for Kedleston. So today, a 'complete', brick built Kedleston, on a much grander scale, is located in its acres of gardens at the heart of the Kolkata business district.

[edit] Museums and Galleries

• Indian Museum
• Town Hall
• Marble Palace
• Gurusaday Museum, Diamond Harbour Road
• Jawahar Shishu Bhawan
• Birla Industrial and Technological Museum
• Science City
• Sabarna Sangrahashala, Barisha.

[edit] Organized tours

• Tourism Dept. of Govt. of India has 1 day tour starting at 8:00AM daily except Monday (check the rate & timings Ph: +91-33-2282-5813). The bus departs from 4, Shakespeare Sarani.

• West Bengal Tourism Development Corp (WBTDC), +91 33 2248 8271, [8]. Offers half and full day sightseeing tours around the city.

[edit] Do

• Take a walk along the river. There is a good promenade near Eden Garden.

• Take a stroll down memory lane at Princep ghat.

• Take a boat cruise in small boats under the starlit sky at Outram Ghat.

• Several modern cinemas are dotted around the city, including INOX at the Forum Shopping Mall and the City Centre in Salt Lake, 89 Cinemas at Swabhumi near Salt Lake City and Fame at Metropolis Mall in Highland Park, all showing Indian and American blockbusters.

• Nandan, 1/1 AJC Bose Road, (east of Rabindra Sadan metro station) +33 2223 1210. The symbol of art and culture in the city and the site of the Kolkata Film Festival every November.

• Football (soccer) is a passion for many Kolkatans with the national clubs, Mohun Bagan Athletic Club [9] and East Bengal Club [10] being the best known teams.

• The Kolkata Book Fair [11] takes place from the last week of January to the first week of February. This is the largest book fair in Asia and is a major event in the city.
• Durga Puja, a festival honoring the Hindu goddess Durga, takes place in October. The biggest festival for Hindus in Bengal and Eastern India, Kolkata takes on an almost carnival like ambiance. Streets shut down for the construction of pandals, large stands that depict events from the Ramayana and crowds flock to the biggest and best ones. A great time to visit Kolkata (unless you have a fear of crowds!).

[edit] Learn

• University of Calcutta, [12]. Established in 1857 it was the first modern university on the sub-continent.

[edit] Work

Volunteering is a real option here with several options.

• Mother Teresa's Mission accepts volunteers to help in its multiple projects around town. Enquire at the motherhouse.

[edit] Buy

Kolkata is a huge city, so all individual listings should be moved to the appropriate district articles. Please help sort them out if you are familiar with this city.

Kolkata is an important trading center for handicrafts produced in Eastern India. Bankura horses, saris from Shantiniketan, and leather goods top the list of Kolkata specialities. It is also famous for its rasgollas and a tin or two as a gift for the folks back home. New Market is probably the most famous place to go shopping but there are bargains everywhere.

• Malls: Metropolis Mall (near Highland Park).

    Maidan Market for all sport items at cheap price  

[edit] Eat

(See district pages for restaurant listings.)

Kolkata was famous for having the best restaurants long before Indians in other cities learned to eat out. Many of the restaurants that line the streets in the Esplanade area have been around for more than a hundred years (unfortunately, many also show their age!). Flury's, on Park Street, was once considered the best English bakery in all of Asia and you can almost imagine Joe Stilwell and Lord Mountbatten arguing over who had command over the allied forces in Burma while enjoying tea, scones, and clotted cream!

But the joy of food in Kolkata is in its Indian foods. Nizam's, in New Market, is credited with the invention of the famous Kati Kebab roll and still serves up the best of the best. Street vendors selling egg rolls/chicken rolls abound and their freshly prepared kati rolls are safe to eat and enjoy. Mughali Paratha (a paratha stuffed with minced meat) is a Calcutta speciality and can be found in various 'cabins' off Chowringhee Road. 'Chops', a sort of deep fried ball stuffed with beet and veggies is another peculiarity that you won't find anywhere else in the world. Puchkas, the Calcutta version of paani-puri, is available on the streets but be wary of the water!

Bengali sweets are famous all over India. Rasagolla (cheese balls dipped in a sugary syrup), Pantua - a fried variant of the same, Rasomalai- the same cheeseballs dipped in creamy sweetened milk, Mishti Dahi (sweet yogurt), Sandesh (several variations available). Try some shops like K.C. Das, Bhim Nag, Nakur Nandy, Sen Mahasoy, Ganguram and not to forget Mithai. These are cheap and should be eaten fresh.

Kolkata is also the home of Indian Chinese food (now making inroads in far-off New York!). Chinese restaurants are everywhere so try the Indian variant of hot and sour soup and the famous Indian chinese dish of chilli chicken.

Bengali food is centered around fish. Macher jhol, literally fish in water, is a watery fish curry available everywhere and goes well with rice, but Bengalis everywhere swear by the hilsa fish (a variant of shad). Hilsa, lightly marinaded in mustard and steamed is up there with the best fish dishes in the world. Unfortunately, it is almost impossible to find a restaurant serving Bengali food so try to make friends with a local! There are a few restaurants which serve Authentic Bengali food, try out "Aaheli" at Peerless Inn or "Oh! Kolkata" or the Cheaper "Suruchi" at 89 Elliot Road

[edit] Drink

• If you really want to try some "Kolkata Variety of Drinks", try Shibuji's Soda Shikanji. It is a small non-descript store that is located on Theater Road, just East of Camac Street. Shikanji is a mixture of pop/soda like Coca Cola or cream soda with special Indian spice mixture made of Salt, Pepper, Lime and couple other common herbs (Note: I am not talking about drugs). On <a>href = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holi>Holi</a> (A traditional Indian Festival celebrating the end of spring and beginning of summer) you get Thandai, a delicious sweet spicy drink made with milk, saffron, pistachios, and other nuts and herbs. On request "Bhang" is added to the concoction, which is a purified extract of Marijuana. NOTE: Even though consumption/smoking etc. of Marijuana in any form is illegal in most parts of India, a special exception is made for Bhang consumption during the <a href = http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holi>Holi</a> festival. You will not get in trouble for Bhang during Holi. However, please be mindful of the hallucinogenic and other effects of marijuana if you decide to consume Bhang.

[edit] Sleep

For individual hotel listings, please see the the various district pages.

Kolkata has long had a concentration of budget backpacker hotels in the Sudder Street area and many of these are colonial era gems, albeit decaying ones. Budget hotels can also be found around the station in Howrah. Sudder Street is more centrally located but both are well connected by public transport.

[edit] Contact

• The area dialing code for Kolkata is 33. From overseas dial +91 33 XXXX XXXX, from within India dial 033 XXXX XXXX. For mobile phones, dial +91 9XXXX XXXXX.

[edit] Internet

Kolkata is a huge city, so all individual listings should be moved to the appropriate district articles. Please help sort them out if you are familiar with this city.

• Iway, [13] has a branch at 59 Park St opposite Music World with around 20 computers and fast connections. ~Rs 25/hour.

• Cyber Quest, Kankurgachi, V.I.P. Market, 1st. Floor, Shop # 01-041, Kolkata - 700054. Cyber Quest has a high speed internet connection of 2 Mbps Rs. 15/hour. Scanning, CD/DVD Burning, Laser Printing and other facilities are also available. They also have a computer store. Contact No. 9830118767 / 23200988.

[edit] Stay safe

Kolkata is reasonably safe, and in general the people are more friendly and helpful than in many of India's other large cities. One noted problem is the drug dealers around Sudder Street. However, as the dealers obviously do not want to draw undue attention to their activity, they are generally not persistent and rarely a threat.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Embassies and Consulates

• Bangladesh Deputy High Commission, Circus Ave (Just east of AJC Bose Rd), +91 (0)33 2290 5208/5209, issues 15 day visas, ranging from Rs 500 (~$10) for Indians to an extortionate Rs 5000 (~$110) for American citizens. Applications are received at window #4 M-F from 9-11AM, and visas are generally ready the next afternoon. Bring 3 passport photos.

• German Consulate General Kolkata/Deutsches Generalkonsulat Kalkutta, 1 Hastings Park Road, Alipore, Kolkata 700027, +91-(0)33-2479 1141/ 1142/ 2150, 2439 8906. The origins of the German consulate in Kolkata can be traced to before the existence of Germany itself, to the establishment of the consulate of the kingdom of Hanover in 1851 and the consulate of Prussia in 1854.

• United States of America, Consulate-General of the, 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani, Kolkata 700071, +91-33-3984 2400. [ note that the ironic address was the result of a diplomatic snub by the then Marxist Bengal government during the period of the US war in Indochina] It is the oldest diplomatic post of the USA in India, and possibly the oldest continuously operating US diplomatic post in the world. Benjamin Joy was appointed the first American Consul to Calcutta by George Washington in 1792, upon the express recommendation of then Secretary of State, Thomas Jefferson. The office at 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani houses the Consulate General and the Office of Consular Affairs. The American Center, located at 38A Chowringhee Road, is home to the American Information Resource Center (formerly the American Library/United States Information Service), and the offices of the United States Educational Foundation in India (USEFI) and the U.S. Commercial Service (USCS).

[edit] Get out

Sunderban

• Vishnupur - famous for terracotta temples, clay sculptures, and silk sarees

• Santiniketan - famous for the Ashramik School, and university founded by Nobel Laureate poet Rabindranath Tagore. the town is also known for its handmade leather crafts and kantha stitch sarees

• North Bengal - a mountainous region home to Darjeeling, Jalpaiguri, Lava-Lolegaon and, further south on the Gangetic plains, the historic districts of Malda and Murshidabad.

• Phuentsholing - Bhutan Government buses depart for this Bhutanese border town from the Esplanade Bus Station at 7PM on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. The journey takes around 18 hours and costs 300Rps. The buses are comfortable, but the roads through West Bengal are full of pot holes, so don't bank on getting much sleep on the way.

[edit] Sundarbans National Park

Part of the largest littoral mangrove in the world, and home to the famous Bengal Tigers

[edit] Tours from Kolkata

The following arrange tours to the Sunderbans :

• West Bengal Tourism Development Corp (WBTDC), +91 33 2248 8271, [14]. Offers 2-3 day safaris to the Sunderbans.

• Help Tourism, +91 33 2455 0917, 2485 4584, +91 98310-31980, helptourismkolkata@gmail.com. offers interesting Wildlife Trip packages for Sunderbans, mainly for small groups. They have their own setup called Sunderbans Jungle Camp on Bali Island.

Kolkota transport options

Airlines

Netaji Subhash Chandra Bose Airport at Dum Dum, is the international and domestic airport of Calcutta, and is located at around 16 km from the heart of the city. The Dumdum metro station is about 5 kms from the airport. Recently a new train line connection with a station adjacent to the airport has been started operating. Taxi-cab is the popular mode of communicating to and from the city. Check Airlines timing

Train

There are two major train stations in the city: Howrah and Sealdah. Recently, some long distance trains are starting from Biddhannagar and other stations too. Howrah station is located on the other side of river Hoogly. Local trains spanning through a network of around 100 kilometres carry millions of commuters every day to and from the city. See train routes

METRO (undergound railway)

India's first underground railway connects between southern and northern part of the city (between Tollygunge and Dumdum ). The track passes through the heart of the city. Some stations are well decorated with art works based on themes related to local area.  Check list of metro stations.

BUS

The most widely used mode of transportation between suburbs and the main city. Buses come in different types, like, CSTC (Calcutta State Transport Corporation) Govt. buses, privately owned bus routes (majority of the buses are privately owned), mini buses, specials, limited stops, express service etc. Fares start from Rs.4 ( as of 2005 Jan, the fare changes frequently) . Some special buses' fare start from Rs.5/6 . Most buses have two doors, some have one. All buses have some seats reserved for ladies and elderly people (senior citizens). In most of the cases, ticket collector (conductor) collects the ticket after boarding.  Check different local bus routes. Long distance buses are available from Esplanade and Howrah. Some long distance buses have luxury elements like video displays, sleep berth etc.

Trams

Though decommissioned in some part of the city, electric trams (runs on track) are still one of the means of traveling between places within the city. They move slow on the laid tracks in traffic jammed streets, but they are environment friendly (no emission). Check list of tram routes

Taxi (cab)

There are plenty of them through out the city. Prepaid taxis are available from Airport and Howrah train stations. Taxi fares are confusing as the taxis are equipped with different kinds of meters. Some have old meters where the fare is usually 200-300% on the top of the metered price. Taxis with new electronic meters have less confusion, but usually 150% of the amount displayed is payable. Whatever it is, the passenger can ask for a rate conversion chart which displays the conversion list between metered amount and the payable amount.

Auto Rickshaws

These three wheeled vehicles runs between short distances and are available through out the city mostly in suburban area. Most of them have designated routes and need a minimum number of 4 or 5 passengers to start. But they are flexible. Being smaller in size compared to other vehicles, sometimes they are able to move faster in the crowded city streets.

Rickshaws

Bicycle Pedalled Rickshaw Three wheeled vehicle with bicycle pedals. Mostly run between short distances in narrow lanes and streets. Can accommodate two passengers, but usually allow kids. Manual Pull Ricksaw T wo wheeled cart pulled by one man. Mostly used for very short distance. Has been banned in the city. Hard to find these days. Cycle Van Rickshaw W idely available in rural and suburbs. Used for carrying goods as well.

Ferry Boats

Very popular among daily commuters who had to cross the river. It is a nice way to avoid infamous traffic jam on Howrah Bridge. The fare is between Rs. 2.00-5.00 and it takes around 15-20 minutes.

 

 

METRO RAILWAY:

Cauvery Emporium stall at the Great Mall

Kolkata�s pride,� the Metro railway, is the most efficient mode of transportation. It usually runs on schedule, is fast, clean and pollution-free. Fare charts are displayed at the ticket counters. On weekdays, the Metro starts at 7 am and the last train leaves at 9:20pm. On Sundays, it operates between 2:45pm and 9:20pm. Frequency of the trains varies between eight minutes from 9am to 11am to 15 minutes during the rest of the day. The disadvantage of the Metro is that the route is somewhat limited, and the service is not 24 hours.

BUSES: The people of Kolkata are extremely friendly and generous with directions. The best way to travel by bus is to ask your host or hotel to tell you the bus number/route to your destination. The fares are minimal and the conductors honest and reliable. In case of doubt, don�t hesitate to ask your fellow passengers for help. However, be careful with your belongings, as an outsider in a crowded bus could be an invitation to pickpockets. Avoid rush hours if you can help it.

TAXIS: Kolkata has a huge fleet of black and yellow taxis, most of which are Ambassadors. They run on a meter, but often the meters are outdated and calculations become complicated. The lowest rate is Rs 20. The best thing to do is ask for a tariff conversion card and pay according to that. Please ensure that the meter is flagged down at the beginning of the journey. Drivers charge a bit extra (between Rs 10-20) between 10 pm and 6 am. You are not expected to tip the cabbie.

TRAMS:

Customers at Amarsons

Kolkata is the only Indian city where trams ply. They are a leisurely way of seeing certain parts of the city, since they run only on specific routes. You should try and get a window seat and watch the city go by, as trams are less crowded than buses and much cheaper than taxis. It�s a comfortable way of travelling. Fare charts are displayed inside the trams. Wait for the conductor to come and ask you for the fare.

AUTORICKSHAWS:

Kaatz Jewellery

Autorickshaws here do not run on meters like they do in other cities. Autos, as they are called, are allowed to ply only on certain fixed routes. In keeping with the spirit of the city, 5-6 people usually share an auto, as it�s economical for the passengers and viable for the driver/owner. The rate for a certain route is fixed by the association; ask the driver about the rate before you get in.

TIPPING: This is just an indication. In restaurants and hotels, tips are pooled and shared by all working staff. Be generous as most people run their lives more on tips rather than the salaries. When in doubt, 10 per cent will do nicely.

Fancy restaurants: 10%; Not-so-fancy restaurants � 10% (max: Rs 50); Cafes � Rs 10/-

Hotel staff: Depends on how happy you are with their services.

Drivers: If you have hired a driver for a day, it is usual to provide his lunch and/or dinner. The standard rate is Rs 30 per meal and the driver is usually given a tip of around Rs 50 at the end of the day.

BARGAINING: Streetside vendors expect you to bargain. Even in some shops, you can ask for a discount as most of the times the shopkeepers expect it and gladly oblige.

RETURNS/EXCHANGES: In Kolkata, as in the rest of India, there is no concept of returning goods once bought. However, goods can be exchanged for an amount either equivalent to your old bill or more, but never less. Do retain your purchase bill. Some shops have specific hours for exchange, so if you have any doubt about a product, ask the shopkeeper about their exchange policy at the time of purchase.

PHONES: Carry a lot of Re 1 coins for pay phones or look for ISD/STD/PCO signs. Here you pay as per the computer printout. However if you are making a local call from such booths then the usual rate is Rs 1.50 per call or Rs 2 per call.

DRESS: Informal loose clothing, like jeans or skirts and you will be comfortable. Skimpily or conspicuously dressed visitors (no matter how regular by Western standards) will be stared at. If you are invited to a Bengali home or to eat out in the evening, smart casual clothes or saris or salwaar kameez will do. However, if you are visiting one of the elite clubs of Kolkata, ask your host the dress code. Suits are the norm at business meetings.

ETIQUETTE: The people of Kolkata are very informal, mostly curious and like talking to visitors. While visiting people at home, you may have to take off your shoes before entering. A pile of shoes at the side of the door is a good indication. Footwear should never be worn in places of worship like temples, mosques and gurudwaras.

INVITATIONS: Most dinners start by 8.30 pm, and lunch by 1 pm. If someone invites you to a club or a restaurant, they are usually punctual. You should be punctual for business dinners and weddings. Wine, which is expensive, is not always drunk but most people drink spirits or beer until dinner is served. Dinner also indicates the end of the party, so it isn�t impolite to eat and run.

EATING OUT: Most bars and restaurants close by 11 pm (last orders 10:30pm). However, some restaurants remain open till midnight. Eating and drinking after the closing time is best in a 24-hour coffee shop at a five-star hotel.

HEALTH: Drink only mineral water or aerated drinks from sealed bottles. Toilet paper is not always available, so it is advisable to carry a roll.

BEGGARS: Instead of giving them money, give them edibles like cookies, bananas or sweets.

CRIME: While travelling in the city never carry too much cash or valuables/passports etc; they are safest at the hotel safe. Please keep a photocopy of your passport, travellers� cheques and other important documents at your room. Be sensible, don�t flash wads of notes or leave handbags unsupervised. If lost, ask around.



ONE LAST WORD OF ADVICE: Enjoy our city and expect surpises. After all, what is a journey without them!

 

Kolkata train routes

Phone numbers of Railways
Description	Phone number(s)
Enquiry 24 hours	131
Recorded Information	220-3535
Howrah Station	660-2581/3542/7412
New Howrah Station(S.E.Rly)	660-2217
Sealdah Station	350-3535 / 3537
Reservation Status	135 , 220-3500

 

From HOWRAH Station
Train	Arrival	Departure	Destination
Ahmedabad Express	05:45	20:15	Ahmedabad
Amritsar Mail	07.35	19.20	Amritsar
Asansol Express	08:45	18:20	Asansol
Azadhind Express	05:15	15:45	Pune
Black Diamond Express	21:25	06:15	Dhanbad
Bombay Mail(via-Allahabad)	13:15	20:00	Mumbai(Bombay)
Bombay Mail (via-Nagpur)	08:20	19:20	Mumbai(Bombay)
Chambal Express	07:55	15:15	Gwalior
Coal Field Express	10:30	17:11	Dhanbad
Coromandal Express	13:30	13:50	Chennai(Madras)
Danapur Express	06:30	21:05	Danapur
Delhi Janata Exp	05:15	21:00	Delhi
Dhauli Express	22:15	06:15	Bhubaneswar
Doon Express	07:00	20:15	Dehradoon
East-coast Express	16:15	09:35	Hyderabad
Falaknama Express	19:40	07:05	Secundrabud/Hyderabad
Gitanjali Express	15:20	12:15	Mumbai(Bombay)
Guwahati-Bangalore Exp	03:30	03:50	Bangalore
Guwahati-Bangalore Exp	13:45	14:05	Guwahati
Guwahati-Kochin Exp	03:30	03:50	Kochin
Guwahati-Kochin Exp	13:45	14:05	Guwahati
Guwahati Trivandam	13:45	14:05	Trivandam
Guwahati Trivandam	03:30	03:50	Guwahati
Hatia(Ranchi) Express	05:30	21:25	Ranchi/Hatia
Himgiri Express	11:35	23:00	Jammu
Ispat Express	21:35	06:50	Sambalpur
Jamalpur Express	05:10	22:30	Jamlapur
Kalka Mail (Delhi)	06:50	19:15	Kalka
Kamrup Express	06:30	15:25	Dibrugarh
Kathgodam Express	11:55	21:45	Kathgodam
Kurla Super Deluxe	05:15	06:00	Kurla(Bombay)
Kurla Express	16:00	10:40	Kurla(Bombay)
Madras Mail	07:40	19:45	Madras
Mithila Express	05:00	16:00	Raxaul/Muzaffarpur
Poorva Express	16:35	09:15	Delhi
Puri Express	06:20	21:45	Puri
Purulia Express	11:35	16:40	Purulia
Purvanchal Express	04:15	13:00	Gorakhpur
Rajdhani Express ( Delhi via-Gaya)	10:45	17:00	Delhi ( via - Gaya )
Rajdhani Express ( Delhi via-Patna)	13:10	13:45	Delhi ( via - Patna )
Rajdhani Express Bhubaneswar-Delhi	16:30	17:00	Delhi
Rajdhani Express Delhi-Bhubaneswar	10:45	11:05	Bhubaneswar
Rampurhat Express	21:45	06:05	Rampurhat
Rayagada Express	05:00	20:40	Rayagada
Saraighat Express	06:00	22:00	Guwahati
Shaktipunj Express	04:30	14:30	Jabalpur
Shantiniketan Exp	15:40	09:55	Bolpur
Shatabdi Express	21:10	06:05	Bokaro
Shatabdi Express	21:00	06:00	Rourkela
Shipra Express	07:55	15:15	Indore
Sri-jagannath Express	09:00	18:25	Puri
Steel Express	10:20	17:30	Tatanagar
Tirupati Express	04:00	23:30	Tirupati
Trichy Express	04:30	15:10	Tiruchirapalli
Trivandam Express	13:45	22:25	Trivandam
Udayan Abha Toofan	18:10	09:45	Sriganganagar/Bhatinda
From SEALDAH Station
Train	Arrival	Departure	Destination
Banga Express	06:45	21:15	New Coochbehar
Bhagirathi Express(3103)	10:25	18:20	Lalgola
Darjeeling Mail(3143)	19:15	08:45	New Jalpaiguri
Gangasagar Exp(5285)	04:25	12:40	Darbhanga
Gorakhpur Weekly Express	11:35	23:00	Gorakhpur
Gour Express	05:15	22:15	Malda Town
Haatey Bajarey Express	04:15	20:00
Jammu-Tawi Express(3151)	15:50	11:45	Jammu
Kanchenjangha Express(5657)	20:35	06:25	Guwahati
Kanchan Kanya Express(3149) (T,Th,Sa)	06:45	21:15
Katihaar Express	04:15	20:00	Katihar
Lal-quila Express	07:15	20:15	Delhi
Mughal-sarai Express	12:30	20:55	Mughal-sarai (Varanasi)
Rajdhani Express (2313) (T,S)	10:45	16:45	Delhi
Teesta Torsha Express(3141)	13:40	06:35	Haldibari (New Jalpaiguri)
Uttar Banga Express(3147)	06:45	21:15	New Jalpaiguri
* Please verify with Indian Railways time table.

 

Local EMU Service
Sealdah	Birati,Madhyamgram,Barasat,Dattapukur,Habra,Bongaon
Sealdah	Budge Budge
Sealdah	Barrackpore,Naihati,Ranaghat,Shantipur
Sealdah	Diamon Harbor
Sealdah	Laxmikantapur, Jainagar
Sealdah	Dankuni
Sealdah	Hasnabad
Howrah	Bandel,Bardhaman
Howrah	Seoraphuli, Tarakeswar
Howrah	Kharagpur